Alright, let’s talk about overcoats. For the longest time, I just didn’t get them. I’d either brave the cold without one, which was dumb, or I’d just throw on any old thing I had, and honestly, it often looked a bit of a mess. I figured, “Hey, it’s just to keep warm, right?” But then I started noticing that a badly chosen overcoat could really ruin a whole look, and a good one? Well, that made a difference.

So, I decided I needed to actually figure out this whole “how to wear an overcoat” business. It wasn’t exactly a smooth ride at first, let me tell you. My first serious attempt involved buying an overcoat that was, in hindsight, way too small. I saw “slim fit” and thought, “That’s the one!” Sure, it looked okay if I was just wearing a thin t-shirt underneath. But try to get that thing over a decent sweater, or even worse, a suit jacket? I felt like a stuffed sausage. Movement was not an option.
Then, naturally, I overcorrected. My next purchase was this enormous, heavy thing. I thought I looked distinguished. Looking back at photos, I just looked like I was swimming in fabric, like a kid wearing his dad’s coat. It wasn’t a good look, not at all. It just hung there, no shape, no style. I realized there had to be a middle ground, some actual thought involved.
My Journey to Getting it Right
So, I started paying more attention. I watched what other folks were doing, and I did a bit of trial and error. Here’s what I sort of stumbled upon that actually worked for me:
- Trying it on properly: This sounds so basic, but it was a game-changer. I started taking the actual clothes I’d wear under the overcoat to the store with me. If I was looking for a coat to wear over suits, I wore a suit jacket when trying them on. For a more casual one, I’d wear a thick jumper. You need to see how it fits with the layers you’ll actually use.
- Getting the length sorted: I played around with this a bit. I found those really short overcoats, the ones that barely cover your suit jacket, just looked a bit off on me, unbalanced. And the super long ones? They made me feel a bit like I was in a costume, and being not the tallest guy, they weren’t doing me any favors. For me, something that hits around mid-thigh, or just a tad above the knee, turned out to be the most versatile. It works with most things.
- Thinking about the shoulders and chest: It’s not just about being able to button it up. The coat should sit nicely on your shoulders, not too tight so it’s pulling, and not so loose that it’s drooping. You want to be able to move your arms freely without feeling like you’re going to rip a seam. If it’s too tight across the chest or back when you’re wearing your normal layers, it’s the wrong size or cut for you.
What I Actually Do Now
After all that fumbling, my approach is pretty straightforward these days. First off, I actually think about what I need the overcoat for. Is it for throwing on over a suit for work or smarter events? Or is it more for casual weekend wear, over jeans and a sweater?
For a smarter look, I generally go for something more structured, maybe in a classic color like navy, charcoal, or camel. I make sure it’s roomy enough to go over a jacket without looking strained. The shoulders are key here – they need to sit right over the shoulders of the jacket underneath.

For casual stuff, I’ve got a bit more leeway. A good peacoat, a duffle coat, or even a more relaxed wool car coat works. The fit can be a little less precise, but I still make sure it’s not sloppy. Even casual should look intentional, you know?
And I learned not to forget the little things. Like, if you’re wearing it open, does it still hang well? What about the sleeves? They should be long enough to cover your shirt cuffs and the end of your jacket sleeves, but not so long they’re bunching up over your hands. It’s often the small details.
So yeah, that was my journey from overcoat idiot to someone who can at least put one on without looking completely clueless. It was a bit of learning by doing, and sometimes by looking pretty silly, but I got there. Now, grabbing an overcoat is just part of getting dressed in colder weather, and it actually feels good to know it looks alright. It’s not about being a fashion expert, just about feeling comfortable and put-together.